Children

It's so IMPORTANT to inspire, teach and show kids that they are a valuable presence in this world!

That God didn't make any mistakes when creating them!   Even at three and four they not only understand but they are thirsty for this knowledge, encouragement and LOVE ❤️

I have worked with so many damaged mentally and most importantly spiritually kids.  It breaks my heart ❤️.

So how do I get this information through to them?

We role play daily.  We put chairs in a circle.  One kid stands in the middle and the kid standing goes around the circle standing in front of each person in the group at a time.  Goal: everyone has to express "what about this child of God is so great!"  They love it so much they request this game now!

We also have to sit in a group and they have to repeat after me:

"I am smart!"

"I love myself!"

"I can do all things that I set my mind too!"

"I am confident!"

"I can!"

"No one is better than me and I'm not better than anyone!"

"I'm a good person!"

Etc.

We're once they didn't so much want to express these words out loud , like one child who said she was stupid all the time, they all now scream it!   Go kids!

These are our future generation and I am darned if I don't teach, encourage, love on and build these kids up!

Why do adults want to become teachers who only want to teach the book studies and NOT encourage and love their students.  I see it all the time.  Talk negatively about their students!   When I'm around I defuse it quickly and won't play into such!

God bless,
Ms Mecky
Ms gecky
Ms necky

Ear Positions

1. Part I

2. How to Communicate With Your Dog 

3. Ear positions-Dog ears aren't  just listening – they’re for talking too!

4. Look at your dog's ears. While we're not able to do much with our own ears, a dog's ears can be incredibly expressive.
   • 
     Ears pricked forward or straight up: This can indicate that the dog is fully engaged in play, hunting, or concentration. It's a sign of paying attention.^[24] This ear position can also indicate curiosity and can express the intent to do something, as the dog is turning to catch sounds. It is an obvious ear position in the early stage of a chase.
   • 
     Ears flattened: Ears that sit against the dog's head indicate that the dog feels afraid or threatened. Ears that are forward but close to the head can also indicateaggression.
   • 
     Ears part way back but not flattened: This indicated unhappiness, anxiety, or uncertainty.
5. 

Dogs Nose II

Powerful Sense of Smell

Humans can’t completely understand all the information a dog gets from smelling another dog’s butt. At least 33 percent of a dog’s brain is designed to process smells, as opposed to about 5 percent of a human’s brain. A dog’s sense of smell is so powerful that he can tell, for example, whether the dog before him in the veterinarian’s examination room was afraid, just by the smell the previous dog left behind.

They Can't Shake Hands

Dogs sniff butts to greet each other, much as humans do by shaking hands. Dogs have anal glands just inside their rectums, which produce a strong odor. Dogs can find out all sorts of information just by getting a whiff back there. They can find out the sex of the other dog, whether the dog is in heat, what the dog ate lately and whether the encounter is likely to be a friendly one. Because the smell is unique to each dog, butt sniffing is the best way dogs have to identify each other.

It Calms and Grounds Them

When a dog already knows about the other dog from a prior sniffing, he still smells the other dog every time they meet. Two dogs who live together typically smell each other’s butts when they come in from outside. So butt sniffing has another purpose: it’s also a dog calming mechanism, according to Kevin Behan, a Vermont dog trainer and author. Anytime something new happens—especially something stressful—dogs tend to sniff each other’s behinds. It satisfies the urge to do something, and it grounds them.

Dogs Might Get into Trouble

Some dogs, when meeting another dog for the first time, are enthusiastic sniffers. But the dog being sniffed might not take too kindly to all that focused attention. Whenever your dog is meeting another dog, be attentive. If the butt smelling is an unwelcome gesture, it’s time to separate the dogs.

Dogs Nose

Your dog's unique nose

A dog's nose not only dominates her/his face, but her/his brain, as well. In fact, a dog relies on her/his sense of smell to interpret her world, in much the same way as people depend on their sight. Although this contrasting world view may be hard to imagine, know that your dog interprets as much information as you do. However, she/he does much of this by smelling an object or animal, not by staring at it.

Facts about a Dog's Dry Nose: When should I be concerned?

Dog owners frequently ask if a dry, warm nose means their dog is sick. The short answer is no, but there are a few things to look out for. Knowing what is normal and what isn't’ is an important part of being in tune with your dog and his needs.

A healthy dog's nose can fluctuate between wet and dry several times over the course of a day. Just like we experience dry noses with our allergies or variability in temperature or weather, dogs can experience similar dry noses. And there are many reasons your dog can have a dry, warm nose that have nothing to do with their health. Here are a few:

• Lying in the sun
• Spending time near a source of heat, like a radiator
• Dwelling in a room with poor air circulation
• Dehydration - not enough water.

More severe symptoms may be cause for greater concern. You’ll want to consult your veterinarian if you notice these with your loved one.

• If your dog has a dry, red nose or the nasal skin is flaking, sunburn may be to blame. Talk to your veterinarian about special lotion for protecting your dog from the sun. Dogs with pale or pink noses are susceptible to sunburn so protecting them from sunburn is important because repeated sunburn can lead to skin cancer.
• When examining your dog's nose, look for any nasal discharge. If your dog's nose runs, the mucus should be clear. If your dog’s nose has bubbly, thick, yellow, green or even black mucus, see your veterinarian.
• If your dog's nose is cracked, has scabs or sores, he may have a skin disorder. Ask your veterinarian to check him out to ensure everything is okay.

Your dog’s nose can provide hints that can help you understand his needs better. For the most part, you can rule out any major concerns. Don’t hesitate to contact your veterinarian for additional information and to ease your mind that your dog’s nose is normal.

Born to sniff

To gain more respect for your dog's olfactory ability, compare it to a person's nose. Inside the nose of both species are bony scroll-shaped plates, called turbinates, over which air passes. A microscopic view of this organ reveals a thick, spongy membrane that contains most of the scent-detecting cells, as well as the nerves that transport information to the brain. In humans, the area containing these odor analyzers is about one square inch, or the size of a postage stamp. If you could unfold this area in a dog, on the other hand, it may be as large as 60 square inches, or just under the size of a piece of typing paper.

Though the size of this surface varies with the size and  length of the dog's nose, even flat-nosed breeds can detect smells far better than people. The following table shows the number of scent receptors in people and several dog breeds.

A dog's brain is also specialized for identifying scents. The percentage of the dog's brain that is devoted to analyzing smells is actually 40 times larger than that of a human! It's been estimated that dogs can identify smells somewhere between 1,000 to 10,000 times better than nasally challenged humans can.

TA dog's nose not only dominates her face, but her brain, as well. In fact, a dog relies on her sense of smell to interpret her world, in much the same way as people depend on their sight. Although this contrasting world view may be hard to imagine, know that your dog interprets as much information as you do. However, she does much of this by smelling an object or animal, not by staring at it.

Species	Number of Scent Receptors
Humans	5 million
Dachshund	125 million
Fox Terrier	147 million
Beagle	225 million
German Shepherd	225 million
Bloodhound	300 million

Dogs' sensitive noses have long been used to track down missing people and sniff out bombs. In recent years, researchers have found a new way for man's best friend to live up to its designation—by detecting cancer. Dogs have been found capable of detecting bladder cancer as well as lung cancer, and now researchers are hoping the same will hold true for ovarian cancer. If it does, it will help scientists isolate the chemical marker that indicates the presence of the disease and develop an electronic sensor to detect it, hopefully leading to earlier diagnoses and increased survival rates

Causes and Treatments for Cracked Paw Pads in Dogs

   If you find that your dogs pads become sore due after a session with Jogs for Dogs please contact the owner and treat the injury with the following guidelines.


  While the leather like consistency of a dog's foot pads may appear to be pretty resistant to the normal wear and tear of every day life, in some cases they may be prone to problems. Dealing with cracked paw pads may be a very frustrating issue, because paw pads hold most of the dog's weight and because they create discomfort while interfering with walking.

Causes of Cracked/Sore Foot Pads in Dogs
The causes of cracked foot pads in dogs may be various. A thorough investigation may be needed so to be able to exclude the triggering cause and initiate proper treatment.

• 1) Contact Irritation

Some chemical products may be irritating to a dog's paw pads. These products may be various, ranging from carpet cleaners, garden sprays, fertilizers to floor cleaners. Once the paws are irritated, the dog will feel the urge to chew on them further aggravating the tissues and causing cracked paws.

• 2) Allergies

Dogs allergic to something found in their food may develop itchiness and scratching which may irritate the skin, ears and paws. Chewing on the paws may cause the paws to crack once again, and because the allergy often remains unsolved, the chewing is often a chronic and very frustrating problem.

• 3) Zinc Deficiencies

Some dog breeds such as Siberian Huskies, Samoyed, German Shepherds, Poodles, Great Danes, Beagles and Pointers may be prone to zinc deficiencies which may cause skin problems and dry, cracked paws.

• 4) Old Age Hyperkeratosis

Senior dogs may be prone to a condition known as Hyperkeratosis, that is, the over production of keratin causing the paws to crack. It is similar to the appearance of corns observed in senior humans as well.

• 5) Excessive Wear and Tear

Dogs walking and/or running on rough surfaces, hot asphalt or ice may develop dry, cracked paws. Hunting dogs, in particular may develop cracked paws from overuse. Walking on ice salt in the winter may dry the paw pads. Ice salt can be toxic to dogs so they should have their paws washed thouroughly..
Treatment

Treatment depends on the underlying cause. Dry, cracked paw pads may benefit of daily applications of Vaseline to soothe and soften the pads. Ointments are generally better absorbed after soaking the paws in warm water. While, licking off the Vaseline is not harmful in small quantities, it is best to temporarily cover the paw pad with a sock for a few hours so the dog does not lick it off and the Vaseline is properly absorbed.
There are also various commercial paw rubs that may be very helpful in keeping the paw moist and less likely to crack. One of the best is called ''Musher's Secret''.

If the cracked paws are due to contact to irritants, owners should try to limit exposure and avoid using chemicals in the areas the dog walks. When food allergies are suspected, putting the dog through a special exclusion diet by a veterinarian may be helpful. Zinc deficient dogs benefit having their diet supplemented with Omega 3 fatty acids.

Neosporin placed on the paws may help keep infections at bay, while softening the paws. Bandages and gauze may be helpful to protect the area, however they should be changed often since dogs sweat from their paw pads and this may cause the gauze to get moist, becoming an ideal ground for bacteria and infection to set in. Dog boots may be helpful to prevent further wear and tear to the area.
If the dog tends to lick the area, an Elizabethan collar may be needed to prevent the dog from having access to the area. Veterinarians may supply them and fit them properly.
Paw pad cracks and injuries are slow to heal because dogs must walk on them and because they are weight bearers. If the dog appears in discomfort when walking and the cracks are not getting better, it is best to restrict the dog's activity for a few days to buy some time in recovery.
If your dog presents with cracked paw pads it is best to consult a veterinarian to rule out first any possible health disorders. Only by identifying the possible cause proper treatment may be initiated.

I have listed a few paw balms below.

Paw Balms:
Pal Dog Soothing Balm

	happytails Canine Spa Line bowWOW Butter Balm Amazon Price: $13.00 List Price: $19.00
	Cain & Able Moisturizing Paw Rub for Pets, 3 Ounces Amazon Price: $13.99 List Price: $18.00
	Invisible Dog Boots - Protect Paws From Sand, Hot Pavement, Ice, and Salt with All Natural 100% Wax-Based Cream. For Dogs Who Just Won't Wear Boots. - 60gm Amazon Price: $5.00 List Price: $24.66
	Tuf-Foot - 8 oz Amazon Price: $13.99
	Protecta Pad - "The Invisible Boot"- 4 oz Amazon Price: $4.99 List Price: $6.59
	8in1 Excel Paw Wax Protector, 1.75-Ounce Amazon Price: $4.95 List Price: $9.99

Flax seed oil for dogs....

Flax seed oil for dogs promotes a soft, glossy coat and healthy skin. If you plan to give your dog flax, look for a raw, unprocessed oil or ground seed product. The whole seed will not provide the dog health benefits provided by ground.

      A dog flax seed supplement will provide Omega-3 and -6 fatty acids. These nutrients are essential for skin and coat health. In addition, alpha-linoleic acid-a component of flax seed-offers immune system benefits and anti-inflammatory properties.

     Have you ever wondered if you are giving your dog all the nutrients he needs?  Flaxseed oil is a commonly recommended supplement to add to your dog’s diet.  There are multiple reason that pet owners decide to use this treatment, and the reasons and benefits might just surprise you.

      The essential fatty acids contained in flax seed oil ensure basic cellular health in all animals.  Research shows that essential fatty acids (EFA) are as important to the health of our pets as vitamins and minerals.  Without EFAs, the cells will not form or function correctly.  These essential acids are responsible for helping the body perform biological functions and they are the building blocks for prostaglandins.  These are the things that regulate the hormones and the nervous and immune systems.  They also play a part in cardiovascular functioning.

      Veterinarians have been recommending flax seed oil for dogs for quite some time.  The fatty acids offer a host of health benefits.  (Keep in mind that although we are discussing dogs here, the benefits also apply to cats, you’ll just need to vary the quantity accordingly).

      One of the primary benefits of giving your dog flax seed oil is the shine that the skin and coat develop.  In addition to making the coat shiny and healthy, flax seed oil is believed to help skin conditions.

• Flax seed oil can be poured right over your dog's daily ration.
• Ground flax seed can be sprinkled over food or incorporated into homemade treats.
• For small dogs (under twenty pounds) add one to two tablespoons per day. For larger dogs, use two to three tablespoons daily.

      Many commercial dog foods do not provide the "good fats" necessary for healthy skin and coat. Dog supplements such as flax seed oil can provide a much-needed boost to your dog's daily nutritional needs, especially when combined with a probiotic digestive supplement.

Take dogs that have a problem chewing at their fur - with patches of skin possibly missing - this is often because of the itchy, dry skin associated with a lack of essential fatty oils. While there are topical ointments and processes you can use to temporarily relieve the itching, by using flax seed oil poured over your dog’s food, the problem is being treated from the inside out.

Barking Issues?

Dogs bark.... It is part of their normal and natural communication and behavior. Dogs can bark for appropriate and good reasons, such as when strangers approach our house, they hear an odd noise, or they are herding sheep. Most of us want our dogs to be "watch dogs" and alert us to anything unusual. But dogs can also bark inappropriately. In two scientific surveys of dog owners, approximately 1/3 of them reported their dogs barked excessively. To control barking in our dogs, we first need to understand why they are barking.

Types of canine vocal communication:

 
Dogs, as well as wolves use many types of vocalizations to communicate. This communication starts very early in life. Young puppies make a mewing-like sound when they are searching for food or warmth. Louder crying sounds are heard if the puppy is hurt or frustrated. As dogs get older, they make five main classes of sounds: howls, growls, grunts, whines, and barks. Each of these classes of sounds is used in different situations.

Howling is used as a means of long-range communication in many different circumstances. Howls are more often associated with wolves, but dogs howl too. Wolves often howl to signify territorial boundaries, locate other pack members, coordinate activities such as hunting, or attract other wolves for mating. Dogs may howl as a reaction to certain stimuli such as sirens.

Growling can occur in very different activities. It is used to threaten, warn, in defense, in aggression, and to show dominance. But growling is also used in play as well. By looking at the body posture we should be able to tell the difference. Growls during aggression are accompanied by a stare or snarl, and the growling dog often remains stationary. Play-growls occur in combination with a happy tail and a play bow to signal willingness to play. These dogs are often moving and jumping about to entice play.

Grunts in dogs are the equivalent of contented sighs in people. They can also be heard when dogs are greeting each other or people.

Whines or whimpers are short- or medium-range modes of communication. Dogs may whine when they greet each other, are showing submissiveness, are frustrated or in pain, to obtain attention, and sometimes in defense. Dogs generally whine more than wolves, perhaps because they use the whine more as an attention-seeking behavior, and are often rewarded for it. Think about it. The first sound you may hear from a new puppy is the whine at night when he finds himself alone. We often are guilty of unintentionally reinforcing this whining by giving the puppy the attention he wants.

Barking is another mode of communication that seems to be more common in dogs than other canine species. Again, this may be the result of human encouragement. Certain breeds have been bred to bark as part of their watchdog or herding duties. Barking is used to alert or warn others and defend a territory, to seek attention or play, to identify oneself to another dog, and as a response to boredom, excitement, being startled, lonely, anxious, or teased.

Why dogs bark?

Alert/warning barks are the type of barks some owners encourage. They want their dog to alert them to the presence of a danger or suspicious stranger. Warning barks tend to become more rapid as the intruder approaches. Aggressive barks are low in pitch and may be combined with growls. We need to be able to distinguish warning barks from barks due to fear.

Attention-seeking barks are most often used by puppies to get you to focus your attention on them. They can become very insistent and hard to ignore, but ignore them we must.

Play/excitement barks are often short and sharp. These barks are common if the dog gets too excited with the game. Often a time-out is in order.

Self-identification barking is what you may be hearing when your dog seems to be answering other dogs he hears barking in the neighborhood. It is his way of saying, "I am over here."

Bored barkers simply need an outlet for their energy and a more stimulating environment.

Lonely/anxious barking occurs if your dog is experiencing separation anxiety. The barking can become self-reinforcing as he becomes more stimulated and anxious. Anxious barks tend to get higher in pitch as the dog becomes more upset. This type of barking can be especially annoying to your neighbors.

Startle barking occurs in response to an unfamiliar or sudden sound or movement. As with an alert/warning bark, we need to be able to control this type of barking quickly.

As you can see, there are many reasons for barking and most barking is a normal behavior. There are some instances in which barking is considered pathological. This will be discussed later in the article.

Characteristics of a barker

Studies have been done to try to determine which dogs are more likely to be barkers. Although there was no difference in the percentage of excessive barkers between males and females, there was a breed difference. Beagles, Terriers, and some herding breeds tend to bark more. That is not surprising, since this is one of the characteristics for which they were bred. Excessive barking can occur in purebred dogs as well as mixed breeds.

General principles for controlling undesirable barking

• If we want to control barking, we need a dog who can obey us and relax. The dog needs to look to her owner for behavior clues. If we can call her, have her lie down (dogs do not bark as much when lying down) and stay, we are well on the way to solving a nuisance barking problem. In addition, there are some common principles we can use in modifying barking behavior.
• First, in most cases shouting "No" is only going to make matters worse since the dog is thinking you are barking too (and is probably happy you joined in).
• Be consistent. Pick a one-word command e.g., "Enough" for the behavior you want and always use that word in the same tone of voice. Everyone in the household must use the same command and act identically.
• Be patient with your dog and yourself. Changing behavior takes a lot of time, and you need to take it slowly, one step at a time. If you become angry at your dog, the chance to correctly modify the behavior will be gone.
• Reward the dog for good behavior. Positive reinforcement is much more powerful than punishment. Physical punishment will do nothing but make your dog fearful of you and break down the bond you wish to have with her. Food treats are fine to use as a reward at first. Often, picking a very special treat like small pieces of cooked chicken or hot dog will make the reward seem even better. As time goes on, you will not give a treat every time, sometimes just rewarding with a "Good Dog" and a pat on the dog's chest.
• Do not hug your dog, talk soothingly, or otherwise play into your dog's barking. Your dog may then believe there really was something of which to be alarmed, afraid, or anxious. This reinforces her behavior and she will likely bark even more the next time.
• Control the situation. As much as possible, set up situations to use as training. Practice in short, frequent sessions, generally 5-10 minutes each.
• Do not be afraid to ask an expert. Animal trainers, behaviorists, and your veterinarian can give you valuable advice. Having them witness your dog's barking episodes may give them valuable clues on helping you solve the barking problem.

Next, we will look at the different types of barkers and more specific ways to modify their behavior. 

Alert/warning barkers

 
Dogs that bark at mail carriers, joggers running by the house, or cyclers on the street naturally have their barking reinforced. They see the mail carrier, they bark, and the mail carrier leaves. The dog thinks, "Boy, I'm good. My barking made that person leave." In modifying the dog's behavior, we need to overcome this reinforcement.

Sometimes, by just preventing the dog from seeing the intruding mail carrier, we can solve the problem. Often, however, we need to do more. First, we must make sure we are not rewarding the dog for any type of barking. If the dog barks when she wants to eat, and we feed her, we are rewarding vocalization. If we try to ignore the barking, but eventually cave-in and give attention, the dog learns that short barks will not do the trick, but excessive and extended barking will.
After the dog has alerted us to an "intruder," we need a way to signal the dog after one or two barks that she was a good dog for warning us, but now we will take control. Often the command "Enough" will accomplish that goal.

Remember: Do not inadvertently reinforce barking by giving verbal or physical reassurance to a barking dog.

To teach "Enough," set up a situation in which your puppy will bark, but not excessively; knock on the door, for instance. After one or two barks, stop knocking and make a sound or distraction that will get her to switch her attention to you. If she stops barking, immediately say "Enough" and reward her with a treat and praise. If she does not stop barking, put that delicious treat right in front of her nose. When she stops barking for a second or two say "Enough," wait a few more seconds and if she is quiet, give her the treat and praise. Timing is critical – she must be quiet when you give her the treat or she will think she is being rewarded for continuing to bark. Be sure to say "Enough" when she is quiet, not when she is barking. Later, as she associates "Enough" with being quiet, you can use it as a command to stop barking.

Fear barkers

 
Some dogs may start with an alert or warning bark, but then progress to a bark that is associated with fear. One of the more common examples of this is those dogs that bark at approaching strangers.

If your dog is barking out of fear of people, first he must learn to be obedient, defer to you for his behavior cues, and relax. Then you can start setting up situations in which people approach from far off, and as your dog remains relaxed, give him treats. Slowly (over days and weeks) have people approach him only to the point where he remains relaxed and you can reward him. As people come even closer, have them throw treats his way so he starts associating people with good things happening. While this controlled training is going on, it is best to not put him in situations in which you do not have control, e.g., walking down a busy street.

Do not encourage your puppy to bark at people. You may set a bad habit in motion and he may become suspicious and even fearful of people. Chances are, he will bark at odd situations and strangers without you telling him to.

Attention-seeking barkers

 
Young puppies, as well as adults soon learn that barking will incite attention from us. The problem is that dogs will be happy with any attention they receive, be it negative or positive. A stern "No" from you is still attention, so the puppy got what she wanted and you reinforced the behavior. It is best to just ignore this type of barking, as hard as that may be.

Sometimes, the use of a remote correction is helpful in controlling this type of barking. Coins in an empty soda can, foghorns, or other noisemakers can be used to startle the dog while she is barking. When she is startled, she stops barking, and at that point, you can give her a substitute for barking – a toy, a walk. Just make sure she stops barking before you give the substitute or the dog will perceive it as a reward for barking.

Play/excitement barkers

 
If your dog barks excessively during play, it is best to let her calm down and slow down the game. If she continues to bark, stop playing until she has settled down.
Self-identification barkers
This type of barking is quite instinctive and can sometimes be difficult to control, especially in a household of multiple dogs. Often there is an instigator dog and all other dogs join in. This type of barking may be controlled using a similar approach to alert/warning barks, i.e., obedience and relaxation methods with a substitute behavior offered, like playing with a toy.

Bored barkers

 
Dogs who bark when they are bored may be similar to dogs seeking attention or those that are lonely. Dogs who are bored need something to do besides barking. We need to give them a more stimulating environment and usually a lot more exercise. A tired dog is less likely to be bored. Toys such as Kongs and Buster Cubes that can be filled with treats can get your dog's brain, as well as his body, working.

Lonely/anxious barkers

Dogs who bark when they are alone may be showing a symptom of their separation anxiety. As we mentioned, these dogs are in the midst of a vicious circle – the more lonely they are, the more they bark, the more upset they get, the more they bark, the barking gets them more upset and they bark more – and the cycle continues.

We need to work with the dog on the underlying behavior of separation anxiety. We can do this several ways. As in alert/warning barking, we need to be able to teach the dog simple obedience and how to relax. Then we can work on the problem of the separation anxiety.

We can start out by leaving or acting like we are leaving for a short time - and before the dog starts getting nervous and barking (this may be one second at first), we come back. This way, we are not rewarding barking, but rewarding relaxation and silence. We gradually extend the time we are gone and return before the dog gets anxious. If your dog is anxious even if you leave the room, then you will need to start by just taking several steps away from her while she remains relaxed. While going through this behavior modification, you cannot go too slow – you can go too fast.

We often need to change our habits too. Often the dog starts getting nervous when we go through our routine of leaving. Maybe you are like me, and the last thing you do before you leave is put on your shoes and pick up the keys. Vary this and put on your shoes and pick up your keys – but do not leave. Go to the couch and read a book. If you only play the radio on weekends when you are home, turn it on during your workdays. As hard as it may be, set your alarm on weekends, get up, but stay home. Continue these changes in routine until your dog does not pay attention to your cues anymore. It is also very important to not give your dog a lot of attention when you leave.

When you are gone, make sure your dog is comfortable – light, warmth, a radio playing, toys. If your dog is outside, a doghouse may help her feel more secure. Some indoor dogs will be more content if they can watch what is going on outside, be it traffic or chipmunks. Others may be more anxious if they can look out and do better with the drapes closed. You will need to decide what makes your dog less anxious. Make sure you give your dog a lot of exercise a half hour or so before you leave. As with boredom, tired dogs are less likely to become anxious.

If your dog happens to not only bark, but destroy things while you are gone, a crate may be necessary. Never punish your dog when you come home and find something chewed or torn. If you do, your dog will soon associate your return with being punished. That is going to make her even more anxious. If you videotape these destructive dogs, you may see the dog is anxious when the owner leaves but anxiety also increases just before the owner's usual time of return, when the dog becomes anxious about the owner's impending return and punishment.

Just as you should not punish your dog on your return, do not give her a lot of attention either - then your returning home will not be such a big deal to her. Instead, come in the door, say "Hello" and go about a household task. Once your dog has settled down and is quiet, then you can spend some quality time with her.
Initially, while you are working on behavior modification it may be helpful to get a neighbor or pet sitter to come in once or several times during the day. This will help break up the long hours the dog has without you.
Finally, if the separation anxiety is severe, medications are often needed during the behavior modification process. Medication alone will not solve the problem, but it can be a useful adjunct to the process. Consult with your veterinarian to determine which medication would be most appropriate.

Startled barkers

 
We can best curb startled barking using the similar techniques for alert/warning barks. Teaching "Enough" will really help in this situation. If a certain sound consistently startles your dog, record that sound. Start by playing it back very softly so your dog will remain relaxed when she hears it. If she remains quiet, then reward her. Over days and weeks, gradually increase the volume until she is no longer startled into barking when she hears it.

Pathologic barking

 
Barking that is a simple nuisance is not the same as barking that is pathologically excessive. Most of the barking we have talked about thus far is normal barking behavior except for that connected to separation anxiety. Barking can be abnormal or "pathologic" in situations of separation anxiety, as a result of an obsessive-compulsive disorder in which a dog barks very excessively or at inappropriate things (a leaf falling), or in dogs who become hyper-excited with the approach of people or other dogs. Dogs who become aggressive during barking episodes need to undergo behavior modification for the aggression before we attempt to modify the barking behavior.

For dogs with pathologic barking or additional behavioral problems, it is highly recommended to use a team-approach to the problem. The team consists of all family members, an animal behaviorist, and a veterinarian. Each family member must work with the dog in the same way, using the same commands. The animal behaviorist may be able to cue in on unique characteristics of your dog's behavior and help you set up training situations that will be most effective. Your veterinarian may also be able to give you insights as well as prescribe appropriate medications to enable the dog to be more responsive to the behavior modification.
Controlling barking through corrective collars
 
There are numerous collars on the market that produce an electrical stimulation, an irritating ultrasonic sound, or a smell (offensive to the dogs, but not to us) when the dog barks. These may be used as an adjunct to behavior modification. Collars alone will not cure the problem. Unfortunately, these collars to do not always produce the desired effect. For some of these hard-core barkers, the punishment for barking is not sufficient to get them to stop. They would rather bark and be punished than not bark at all. For dogs who bark when they are anxious, the collar's correction may make them even more anxious.

In some situations, these corrective collars have been found to be useful. For instance, there is a citronella collar which gives off a citrus smell when the dog barks. This can alert you to the fact the dog was barking while you were gone since the citrus smell still lingers in the air. In situations where you must change the barking behavior quickly or you may lose your dog (or apartment), a bark-control collar may be used while you are away from the dog. When using a bark-control collar, remember that you not only have to stop the bad behavior, you need to reward the good. Your dog can not learn an appropriate alternative to barking if someone is not present to teach it to him.

Another type of collar that may be effective is a halter collar. This type of collar looks more like a horse halter; brand names include Gentle Leader/Promise System Canine Head Collar and Halti Head collars. When you pull on the leash portion, a portion of the collar tightens around the dog's muzzle. By using a quick pull of the lead, saying "Enough" when the dog is quiet, and then rewarding him, you may find the training goes faster.

De-barking
Debarking is a surgical procedure that removes the vocal cords from dogs. There are two surgical approaches, one through the mouth, and the other through an incision in the neck. Debarking will NOT result in a silent dog. A dog who has undergone the procedure will still attempt to bark, and make a hoarse sound, which some people find more irritating than the bark itself. Debarking will not cure the reason for barking – the fear, boredom, or anxiety will still be there.

Preventing nuisance barking in puppies

Teaching your puppy appropriate behavior from the beginning is easier than changing behavior that has become a bad habit. Some behavior we may think of as cute in a puppy will not be cute in an adult dog. So, think ahead to avoid potential problems.
The first few nights after bringing your puppy home will be the hardest. You may want to put his crate in your bedroom. The puppy will be more secure with you near. Security builds trust. Trust will decrease the possibility of separation anxiety in the future. Just remember not to give any attention to the puppy if he is whining – that will only reward his undesirable behavior.
By starting to train your puppy in obedience and relaxation at an early age, you can greatly reduce the probability your puppy will grow into a problem barker. Nip problems in the bud and always look at why the puppy is barking. Is it fear, anxiety, attention-seeking? Use the appropriate measures to treat the underlying problem.

Remember that if for some reason you want your dog to bark on command, or in a certain situation, you must also be able to teach him to stop on command. Teach "Enough" at an early age. This was described under "Alert/warning Barkers".

Introduce the young puppy to situations that may cause anxiety later on. Get your puppy used to walking on the sidewalk along a busy street. Expose your puppy to sounds like vacuum cleaners, hair dryers, and other noises. Take things slow so your puppy does not become anxious while being exposed to these new things. Reward the puppy when he is quiet and relaxed.

Puppy classes are a great place for your puppy to meet new people and other dogs. He can learn to obey you even when there are numerous distractions. You also have a trainer present who can help you with any potential problems.

In short, it will be a lot more fun for everybody if your puppy learns to communicate through a wag of the tail and looking to you for guidance rather than through excessive and relentless barking.